claymore slinger


\Clay"more`\, n. [Gael. claidheamhmor a broadsword; Gael. claidheamh sword + mor great, large. Cf. Claymore.] A large two-handed sword used formerly by the Scottish Highlanders.

\Sling"er\, n. One who slings

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The Rapier (Continued)

Parries, Wards, and Guards

Ok, let's get into the Parries, Wards, and Guards business. What's the difference between all of these? Not much. It really depends on who you talk to, the masters they have studied, and the time period you are talking about. Here's my interpretation of what they are.

Parries are blocking positions of the sword. Your body is basically split up into four quadrents. An attack into one of these quadrents is blocked by a specific parry. Parries are usually numbered. The number of the parry depends upon the quadrent attacked and if your hand is pronated (palm down) or supinated (palm up). Don't forget that a parry should be immediately followed by a riposte or counter attack. If it isn't, your opponent may launch a redoublement or second attack and you'll be parrying up the wazoo. We will be more specific about parries a little later in this section.

Guards or Wards are pretty much the same thing in my mind. They are positions or postures you get into to get a desired result from your opponent or to block an attack. An example would be if your opponent likes to launch attacks to the inside. Then maybe you would assume an inside position to take that away from him. Or, say you have an opponent that is apprehensive about attacking you. Maybe you start out in a low ward, with your sword at a lower position pointing downward, to invite an attack. This can also throw off his perception of distance. Overall though, as you will notice later on in this section, that some of the Guard or Ward positions are the same as Parry positions.

Enough chit chat, on with the goods!

Parries

As I stated above, the body is broken down into four quadrents. These quadrents are basically simple. Upper inside, lower inside, upper outside, and lower outside. Outside being the outside of the weapon or, if righthanded, to the right of the weapon, and inside being on the inside of the weapon or, if righthanded, to the left of the weapon. Got that? :) Good, let's carry on.

*Remember, parries are made with the strong part of the blade, the forte, against your opponents weak part of the blade, the foible.

Most parries with the rapier are made with the true edge of the blade. The idea was to quickly rotate your wrist so your knuckles go into the attack. Also keeping in mind that you want to try to keep your point pointed at your opponent so you can quickly reposte or counter attack. So, on attacks from the outide you would pronate your hand, palm down, and attacks on the inside you would supinate your hand, palm up. The false edge can also be used to parry but, in most instances it is a weaker parry. But sometimes you gotta use what you gotta use :) Come to think of it, I only recomend one parry with the false edge. You'll find out which in a minute :)

I will give the parries their English number equivolents. Start in your on guard position with your sword in the "middle guard" we talked about on page two.

Parry in 1: This parry blocks attacks coming into your upper inside quadrent. The parry is said to have developed from actually unsheathing the weapon. Do you like movies with swordplay in them? Of course you do! There is a perfect example of this in "The Pirates of the Carribean". In the closing fight scene between Capt. Jack Sparrow and Capt. Barbosa. Barbosa pulls the sword from the sheath and parries Jack's inside cut attempt at the same time. A pretty good no. 1 for the movies. Check it out!

So how do you do it?. The thrust or cut is coming to your upper inside quadrent. in one motion turn your wrist over in pronation as you are pointing the tip of the sword down and moving the sword into the quadrent. On the norm your hand should be about shoulder high, arm should still have a bend in it. The sword should not be too far over the quadrent, just enough to parry the thrust or cut without touching you. Your palm should actually be facing you, knuckles to the attack. You can raise this parry slightly to protect your head as well but, be sure not to cover your eyes.

Parry in 2: This parry blocks part of the upper outside quadrent. Picture an attack coming in this quadrent. From your on guard position overpronate your hand while moving it out and up to about shoulder hieght pointing the tip of the sword down. Do not lock your elbow. Do not move your hand any further out than you absolutely need to to protect the area. As with all parries you need to keep the action small in order to reposte quickly.

Parry in 3: This parry blocks part of the upper outside quadrent, including the hand, the forearm, and the cheek. From your on guard position pronate your hand. The true edge of the sword will now be turned outside, from up to 30 degrees outside the plane. You can also do this with a more "point on" approach for a little faster reposte.

Parry in 4: The 4th position protects your high inside line. This includes the chest, belly, hand, forearm, and cheek. The guard is placed in front of the body and in front of the left side of the torso. Keep your shoulders relaxed, the upper part of the arm stays in the fencing line. Now twist your wrist so the hand is in suppination. See how the forearm and hand go to the left. BAM parry in 4. You always want to keep your point toward the opponent. You can also do this parry with a more "point on" approach and slide in that reposte. Reguardless, as with all parries, don't make to big of a motion, do not take the point too far offline, if at all, and always reposte.

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