claymore slinger


\Clay"more`\, n. [Gael. claidheamhmor a broadsword; Gael. claidheamh sword + mor great, large. Cf. Claymore.] A large two-handed sword used formerly by the Scottish Highlanders.

\Sling"er\, n. One who slings

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The Longsword

We will break down the use of the Longsword into several different catagories for easy referencing. The catagories will not contain the same old regurgitated historical text, but the weapon's use from years of practical application put into understandable terms. We will have historical links up for you to study as well. Fiore dei Liberi and other major influences. The more information you have the better. It's always cool to know actual name's of guards or wards but, some people go off the historical text alone and tell you that this the way it is done and that's that. Let me let you in on a little secret. A lot of historical text written by Masters of the Sword did not tell you everything. That was saved for actual student of the Master. The text didn't always tell you how to get from point A to point B. Sometimes it was left up for interpretation. Practical application my friend is the interpreter. We will be adding on to these sections on a regular basis so please check back. People have been asking us to put something up so here it is. Anyway, let's get started!

The Grip

Although the Longsword can be swung by a single hand it is meant to be swung with a two hand grip. Being as such, when swung with two hands it can leave devestating damage in it's wake. Also, with a two hand grip, this leads to a well rounded offence and defence.

The basic grip for a longsword is that of the lead hand flush up against the crossguard and the rear hand close to, if not partially gripping, the pommel. The lead hand is the guider of the strike and the rear hand is the power. So, when you strike your pushing slightly with the lead hand and pulling with the rear. Almost like a fulcrum effect. The rear hand can also put on the breaks when you need to pull a shot or change direction. Keep these tips in mind when you practice the drills that lay ahead. Also keep in mind this is a basic grip for the longsword. The grip can change depending upon the actions you wish to execute. More thrusting accuracy, wrap you lead hands forefinger around the cross guard. Warning, it may get tagged so be careful. More cutting or thusting power, grip the pommel entirely. The fulcrum thing comes into effect. Try it out!

Stance

Your stance with the longsword is a stance in which you need to be mobile, not locked into one motion or another. If your feet are lined up like a modern fencing stance, or even a kendo stance, your linear movement is excellent but your side movement sucks. Feet too square, same thing in reverse, side movement great, linear movement sucks. Get the picture :) A happy medium is what is called for.

OK, let's find your stance. Get into your fencing "on guard" stance. If you are not familiar with that, put your lead and rear foot together so that your heels are touching to form an L, for lefties and a reverse L for righties. Now, with your lead foot take a comfortable step forward. Your feet should be about shoulder width apart. Tah Dah fencing stance. With the Longsword you want to open that up a bit. Take your rear foot and turn the toes so your foot is in a 45 degree angle. Now sidestep it out about shoulder width with your feet evenly balanced. Turn your shoulders a little more square. Play with it a little bit. You want it to be comfortable and mobile. The fencing stance it great for linear movement but sucks for any sideway or circular movement. You want a happy medium. Your posture should be more or less straight. Don't lean too far forward.

Your balance should be evenly distributed. But, because you use your rear foot to catapult you forward, sometimes you put more weight on it. Other times your weight will be on the balls of your feet for all around mobility. Yet, other times more on your front leg to propel you backwards. You need to be prepared to move and move quickly in any direction and balance is a key.

*Just a note on your stance. Your stance will open and close, change and move, depending upon you or your opponents intent or actions. But, this is a good starting point. More will be explained as we go along.

Guards, Wards, and Positions

All guards, wards, or positions are postures from which to launch an attack or parry. There are five basic guards and at least an additional nine guards worth mentioning. Let's start with the first five and take it from there.

Middle Guard

This guard is basically the foundation for all other stances. It's the Longsword equivalent to an "on-guard" position in Rapier or sport fencing. So, get in your "on-guard" stance that we worked on in the above Stance section. Pick up your weapon. Hold it out in front of you so it is held at an approximate 45 degree angle pointing at your opponents face or throat, no matter how tall or short he (or she) is. Your arms are held out in front of you with a nice bend at the elbows, relaxed and comfortable, not too close to the body but, not bent out too far either. The weapon should be pointing out from your lower abdomen, about a fists width away from your body. Don't tence your grip. Keep your overall self relaxed and on the ready. You can virtually make any attack or parry from this position. A very important asset.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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